Sunday, January 22, 2012

Shabbat in Marrakech

Shabbat in Marrakech was relaxing we davened and ate at the one local synagogue. Erev Shabbat we were waiting to be bused to the Shul, when ten horse pulled carriages rolled up to the curb. We traveled in style through the city, waving at the passing cars. Our carriage was the first, and it was quite a sight to turn around and see the convey of kivunim kids in their carriages behind us. Dinner and lunch were both cooked by the rabbis wife, and served in an outdoor tent in the chatzer of the Shul. It fascinated me when I looked at the top of the tent and noticed that the poll to which the tent was strung had a crescent moon on top of it- a symbol of Islam. I suppose that in a Muslim country one cannot escape the influence of Islam on Judaism. They are so similar and one is forced to admit that they each helped shape and mold the other.

The Shul itself was quite lovely. In the front was an Arron hakodesh made of cedar wood, carved with incredible deftness and intricacy. The Aaron adorned the entire front of the room and the rabbi in his welcoming speech to us explained it's story. The Aaron was originally in an older Shul within the melech. When all the Jews moved out of the inner city and when the French government permitted them to settle, they established a new synagoge. It was decided that the Aaron should be transported to the new synagoge, and the rabbi along with his father moved the Aaron piece by piece to the new building, along with the ancient Torah scrolls which were inside. That night the old abandoned synagoge burst into flames, yet thankfully the Aaron had already been safely moved to it's new home. People saw the coincidence and the miracle that the Aaron had been salvaged and began to wonder of it's whereabouts. It was discovered that the Aaron had been carved by two brothers, and had been donated to the Shul. Rumors went around that the old synagoge had a gzera on it that it would burn, however because the Aaron had been given so selflessly by the brothers, it had served to protect the synagoge. Once the Aaron was removed the synagoge alighted in flames, yet myth has it that something which is given with such love can never be destroyed, and hence the Aaron still exists in all it's glory till today.

Motzsash before making havdala we went to a Muslim families house, who every year hosts kivunim for a meal. The house was magnificent, with large rooms and high ceilings. Pink marble pillars supported the building, and decorative molding  hung from the ceiling like stalagmites in-between every room. ( rafi claimed they were a middle class income family who had inherited their gorgeaous home.) At their house we made havdala together, on orange juice instead of wine, as wine is not allowed in a Muslim household. That a Muslim family would invite a group of Jews into their house to perform a religious ritual which is foreign to them is really a bold action to be admired. We were given a cooking lesson by the wife and taught how to make a traditional chicken tajin,before being served a delicious meal complete with fruit pudding for desert. 

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